North Macedonia sits between Greece, Bulgaria, Serbia, Kosovo, and Albania — and somehow gets overlooked by almost everyone travelling between these countries. This is a mistake. Lake Ohrid is one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes, Ohrid town is a UNESCO-listed Ottoman gem, and Skopje is one of the most bizarre and fascinating capital cities on the continent.
Skopje: Baroque Gone Wrong
Skopje's city centre was rebuilt after a 1963 earthquake and then subjected to "Skopje 2014" — a government project that added neo-classical statues, triumphal arches, and baroque fountains in an attempt to create an ancient feel for a city that doesn't need it. The result is genuinely surreal — Alexander the Great atop a massive horse fountain surrounded by 100 other statues. Spend one day here, embrace the absurdity.
The Old Bazaar (Čaršija) across the Stone Bridge is the counterpoint — an authentic Ottoman bazaar that pre-dates all the baroque additions and is far more interesting. Food here is excellent and cheap: a full meal for $3–5.
Ohrid: The Jewel
Three hours by bus from Skopje ($8), Ohrid sits on a lake so clear you can see the bottom at 20 metres depth. The old town piles up a hillside above the water with 365 churches (one for each day of the year, according to legend), a medieval fortress, and some of the best fresh trout you'll eat anywhere.
The Church of Saint John at Kaneo sits on a cliff above the lake and is the most photographed image in the country — and deservedly so. Arrive at dawn or dusk and you'll have it to yourself.
What to Eat
- Pastrmajlija: oval flatbread topped with diced pork, baked in a wood oven. National dish. $3.
- Ohrid trout (in Ohrid obviously): grilled, with vegetables, lemon, $6–8. Worth every cent.
- Tavče gravče: baked beans Macedonian-style with peppers and spices. $2–3.
Daily Budget
- Skopje: $22–27/day
- Ohrid: $25–30/day (accommodation slightly pricier due to tourism)